Hiya Gorgeous,
We talk a lot about healthy beauty here at KrisCarr.com. Foundation, mascara, nail polish, you name it, we’ve either covered it or it’s in the works! Today, I’m tackling one of the trickier topics that readers ask me about time and time again—hair dye!
You’re probably hip to the fact that the chemicals that color your hair can have some not-so-sexy effects on your health.
Over the years, I’ve had trouble finding safe and effective options. In other words, I needed this info just as much as you!
And that’s why I asked Sophie Uliano, my go-to organic beauty expert to help out. Sophie is a New York Times best-selling author and internationally renowned Green and Healthy Living expert. Her latest book, Gorgeous for Good, is a 30-day skin-to-soul program aimed at completely transforming the way you feel.
Whether you’re trying to cover up pesky greys or just want to revamp your look with a fun new style, I hope this blog helps you make healthier choices. Ready? Let’s comb through this tangled topic together…
Kris: What are the worst offenders when it comes to chemicals found in common hair products? Basically, when we’re reading labels what should we stay away from?
Sophie: The most common “offender” would probably be phenylenediamine (PPD), also known as paraphenylenediamine, p-phenylenediamine or 1,4-benzenediamine. PPD is an organic compound used in hair dyes, as well as in rubber chemicals, textile dyes and pigments. Manufacturers like it because it has a low relative toxicity level and a high temperature stability. This chemical allows the dye to stay on your hair despite numerous washes. One big reason you want to avoid PPDs is that repeated exposure can cause you to develop allergic skin sensitization, which is basically when your immune system reacts to the chemicals on your skin.
Here’s the deal: In the past, you may not have had any symptoms of skin sensitivity to hair dye. And then one day while sitting in the salon chair, BAM! The dye is applied, your eyes start to water, you feel a burning sensation on your scalp and a red irritation begins creeping down from your hairline. This is how “skin sensitizers” work. Your body builds up a resistance toward the chemicals over time, and then one day you get a full-blown allergic reaction.
Even worse, you can become cross-sensitized. This means that you might also suddenly become allergic (and I mean severely allergic) to PPD’s chemical cousins, which can be found in textiles, inks, medication dyes, food dyes, perfumes and more.
Kris: So if you’re not a fan of your natural hair color, what’s the best way to dye your hair while also reducing or avoiding harmful effects of PPD and other chemicals?
Sophie: You’re better off using a hair dye that is free of PPD and ammonia. A line that I love for stylists (turn your stylist on to these guys!) is Simply Organic’s Hnectar hair color. You also might want to look at Radico Colour Me Organic for home dyeing with 100% natural and organic ingredients. (I actually think it’s better and less expensive to dye your hair at home!)
Kris: Are there different suggestions for blondes, brunettes or redheads?
Sophie: Blondes are often the toughest because without bleach it’s very hard to get that bright “lift” without brassy tones. If you want very blonde hair, you might want to consider using a safe, organic base color, and then have a smattering of bleach highlights added. The organic natural shades (especially with henna) are pretty amazing for both brunettes and redheads.
Kris: Do different approaches to dyeing your hair (highlights, roots only, full-process, bleaching, ombre) impact your health differently?
Sophie: Absolutely. If a “single-process/full-process” base color is applied, it sits directly on your scalp for a period of time. This is where the real damage to your health occurs. This is why I strongly recommend a safe, non-toxic base. Highlights and low-lights rarely come into contact with your scalp, so they aren’t nearly as detrimental. That being said, bleach gives off fumes that you inhale, and bleach in general isn’t the most eco-friendly ingredient either!
Kris: What’s the difference between store-bought and salon hair dye products when it comes to toxicity and effectiveness?
Sophie: It’s easier to check out the ingredients in store-bought dyes because the ingredients are listed on the box. If you purchase from a certified organic company, and you’ve done your homework on ingredients, you should be fine toxicity-wise. Most of the safer companies will clearly use verbiage such as “free of PPD” etc. Some brands display a laundry list of chemicals that they don’t use, which is also useful.
As far as efficacy is concerned, you just have to try them out. Hair color is so personal—what works for me might not work for you, and vice versa. Most store-bought dyes will work (as in dye your hair for the specified amount of time), but shades in different brands vary.
When it comes to salon dyes, you have to dig deeper. If you have a close relationship with your stylist/colorist, you could ask him/her what brand they use. Most stylists use the brands that give the best aesthetic results, but that aren’t necessarily the healthiest.
You then have two choices at the salon: You can ask your colorist if they would be willing to try out an organic brand (you might have to show them the website), or you can do a Google search to find an “organic” hair salon in your area. I got my stylist to train to use a brand I like and trust. Many of the really great brands like Simply Organic (mentioned above) provide special training for salons.
Kris: I’d also love to know your recommendations for shampoo and conditioner. What are the top three brands you trust?
Sophie: I love Intelligent Nutrients, Onesta and Living Nature.
Kris: And is there a DIY haircare recipe you’d recommend for keeping hair healthy?
Sophie: Yes, this mask is magical!:
- 2 tablespoons raw coconut oil
- 1/2 ripe avocado
- 2-4 drops lavender essential oil (optional)
Mix the ingredients into a smooth paste. Apply from roots to tips of your hair, making sure you massage it into your scalp too. Wrap your hair in a towel and leave for at least 20 minutes. Rinse off with a sulfate-free shampoo. No need to condition.
For extra shine, you can do an apple cider vinegar rinse—just mix equal parts vinegar and water and use as a final rinse.
Kris: Thanks, Sophie!
If you have doubts about your dye, I hope this interview sheds some light on healthier hair care options and inspires you to revamp your hair color strategy if needed.
Your turn: Do you color your mane? If so, what non-toxic and effective hair dye options have you found? I know our community would love to know!
Peace & Non-Toxic Tresses,
Very informative post Kris, Thank you! Just wanted to know if is there any side effects of Hair Paint?
I was devastated some years ago when Proctor & Gamble discontinued their PPD-, ammonia- and peroxide-free hair color, Loving Care. A bunch of us raised a ruccus, and online retailer NationWide Campus came through with a copy. The shades are truly comparable and I’ve been quite happy with it ever since. Their brand is called “Love Your Color” and it is supposedly a true duplicate of the original. No claims to be organic, though.
I love Hairprint as well. Took my hair back to my natural color and it highlights itself like it used to. Good article!
This is some really good information about hair coloring. I like what you said about how you how you can use coconut oil to color your hair. It does seem like a good idea to talk to a professional about ways you can do this naturally.
I am super blonde and my stylists uses a brand called oway. It’s amazing and it’s not bleach but lightens wonderfully! It’s an organic line and the conditioner is actually a hair mask that makes your hair so soft. I strongly advise everyone to check it out!
Hi I have naturally curly brown hair. I have used henna and boy it is natural it even makes my hair curlier.!! It is grainy well like mud but I know it’s better and I do get the red highlights that I like..
Your information is always refreshing !! Thank You Warrior Angel
What about the idea of not doing an all over color but instead letting it go natural and adding a few highlights to keep the texture interesting? Or stopping coloring altogether? I think it is equally important to embrace your body and you age and accept that human hair evolves and changes as we age. We need to be in a healthy place of acceptance about our bodies and our age. I think letting go of coloring and the reasons we do it is very liberating. I have a friend who recently stopped coloring her hair after struggling with an allergy and it was emotionally difficult and vulnerable. It has me seriously thinking that I should just stop. Own the gray. It’s our beautiful natural selves.
I have never colored my hair. I started as a blonde. In high school it went darker blonde. In my thirties into a beautiful chestnut color. Now it’s half silver. God knows what colors looks best on me. He designed me just as I am. I embrace my coloring. My skin, eyes and hair all go together. I am quite encouraged to see more and more women embrace the color palette God created them with. It’s so beautiful! The women I know that quit coloring after all these years are so happy to be done with the expense and hassle of coloring. No more roots to cover.
I know this is an article about natural color. What is more natural than the color you are hiding? No chemicals! Totally safe! And so pretty!
Hi Kris:
Thank you so much for the information…great as always! I have been coloring my hair for over 50 years and will never have it done by a Colorist again since having a very bad reaction many years ago. At that time, while I still had the color on my head and was in tears because it was burning so much, the Colorist refused to wash it off and said there was only 10 minutes left. Since then, I have been doing it myself and it has never been an issue but I was always concerned about the chemicals as I lighten my hair considerably. This is great information. Did Sandy (The Colorist) post her tips too? I am assuming she is here because she, too, wants to reduce chemical dyes she is giving to her clients. I would be interested to hear how she is approaching this. Thank you Kris, I really appreciate the information and will be looking more closely at the ingredients of my product now.
I color my own hair after I experienced an allergic reaction to a commercial hair dye at a salon. I now use henna and indigo. The company I order from has samples so that you can play with and create your own recipe. For example, I use 5 tbsp of henna and 4 to 4 1/2 tbsp of indigo.
What company do you order from?
Hi Kris,
In Australia I use this company’s shampoo, condition + treatment: https://www.everescents.com.au/ I’ve been using their products since losing my hair to chemotherapy and I got it all back just as curly, thick and healthy was it was before. I use and love love their cinnamon patchouli range, smells divine. It’s not harmful to me or to the environment, it’s a win win.
Lia xxx
Oooh those scents sound Divine..I will check it out Thank you from a curly haired girl
You said base blond natural and add bleach highlights. Any alternative to bleach?? Blonds always go brassy with natural home dye from health store. Love to ash it out. Don’t wanna use bleach. Does peroxide and baking soda work as bleach alternative?
Does anyone know how safe Aveda is for people and the planet? They claim to be healthy and my stylist said their coloring products are safe but l just wanted to be sure. Thanks everyone!
I use Cover the Grey. It is Henna but the two steps seem to work better. Time consuming and messy but I hadn’t found a chemical one that doesn’t have some questionable items in it. I seem to remember Radico still having ingredients you should avoid.
Great post! I was literally just saying this morning how I want to find a new way to color my hair!
My question is… does anyone have experience dying dreadlocks?? I used to highlight my hair and stopped several years ago, then dreaded it (which is super fun!), though now my roots are brown and my ends are super blonde! I’m recently engaged & I think I’d like to touch them up before the wedding. Has anyone dyed dreadlocks or highlighted dreadlocks? Would you recommend doing it or do they grow out and look weird? I am wondering what will happen down the road if/when I eventually comb them out…
THANK YOU!! LOVE ALL YOUR THREADS KRIS! 🙂
I’m in the Mehandi-Henna club and soooo happy for 8 years now. It keeps my hair so shiny and healthy, and the color is great. There are a lot of different shades you can aim for if you don’t prefer the red, their customer service is fabulous and its a great price too. I have to do my grey roots about once a month, and spend about $7 each time. I’ve converted two of my co-workers who were previously spending buckets of $$ on hair dye and exposing themselves to the toxic stuff. If you’re going to try it you should read the different suggestions from their website. I’m not advertising for them, but if you choose a product that has added ingredients then you can end up with color trouble, and at Mehandi their product is lead-free and no additives.
Any thoughts on using Madison Reed hair dyes? They appear to avoid all EU banned chemicals.
I too, like all of you appreciate going as natural as possible to reduce our exposure to chemicals. I did take it a bit personally and apologize for that. However, the use of Henna and “natural” dyes can also cause issues with the hair and scalp. I am extremely careful with my clientele and am happy to help those looking to use natural products. It can be a complicated issue and I urge caution when someone doesn’t understand the process. Hair is a protein and interacts with dyes in many ways, some predicable, some not. So even when a formula is provided, please understand it does not always work the same on different heads of hair. That being said, do a test strand if you’re unsure. And people on medications and undergoing treatment need to be careful with all dyes. I think I would like to write an article, if I can keep it from being too wordy. The more I write the more I think of. I meant no offense, I am passionate about hair, educating my clients and the power of women helping each other in our journey through life.
Hi! How about Hairprint!
Hi Everyone!
I found a terrific professional brand of hair color called Madison-Reed. It does not have any PPDs, ammonia, resorcinol, or parabens. Their website has a very short questionnaire to help you find a shade, and it comes with explicit instructions on how to apply it. I chose to take it to the salon and have my hairstylist apply it for me because I don’t have the patience to do it myself. It covers gray beautifully and makes your hair feel silky, especially if you use their shampoo and conditioner, which also help to keep the color rich. You might have seen their commercial. It shows a woman’s hair being blown around and ends with her looking up and her hair blown into place. Their website is http://www.madison-reed.com.
I also tried Madison Reed and the result was really good! (and a lot less costly!) My hair is light blonde so I was skeptical at first but very happy with the color.
Always check the ingredient list yourself. The marketing lingo just makes it confusing.
https://ireadlabelsforyou.com/madison-reed-hair-dye-review/
Marlene, I’m glad you looked further at Madison-Reed. The link you furnished is enlightening. I used it twice last year, but tried Hairprint for the first time a couple of months ago and am sticking with them. I prefer restoring my own natural color.
What is some of the hair products u use for short hair I like what you ARE doing for some of US ladies ON Facebook I’m ON a lot of medicine and I KNOW some of the products already for black people hair TO help IT to stay healthy
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!! 🙂 Sooooo excited for this very helpful information!
Lots of Love,
Fiona <3
There is a lady called mommypotamus she has written a couple of ebooks on homemade products without the chemicals. She wrote one on beauty and it’s really interesting to read. She has natural conditioners, shampoos and even toothpastes… Well worth getting if you are looking at beauty products without issues.